A slightly noisier stretch of canal today. We drove up into Lancaster and parked near my old senior school. Now then, this was an emotional one for me because there are a lot of lovely (mostly drunken) memories around here. More than most walks we've done, this one was absolutely cluttered with little bits of my past. I also spotted another little bit that I want to walk another time, where we used to do our cross-country run for school PE lessons – oh god, no one enjoyed those.
It's an unusual bit of canal, this mile or so, because you have to cross over bridges a few times where the path runs out. It's not quiet either, because it goes right through town so you can always hear the roads. But it's lovely all the same.
The first bridge is before we've even started.
It's an unusual bit of canal, this mile or so, because you have to cross over bridges a few times where the path runs out. It's not quiet either, because it goes right through town so you can always hear the roads. But it's lovely all the same.
The first bridge is before we've even started.
There it is. A bridge. Looks very low, doesn't it? That's because it is. I noticed that about all the bridges today – the paths are narrower than in some of the sections we've walked over the past weeks, and I felt like I had to duck a bit to avoid hitting my head. There was also that weird sensation of feeling like you might just lose your balance for no reason and fall in, even if you're not a clumsy person normally.
All of these boats had people in them. I don't know whether they live here permanently (some do) or whether they're just spending lockdown here. I've been to a couple of parties on narrowboats – I don't remember much about either of them. Over the wall on the left, that's part of the hospital. Handy.
Ah, here it is. The Water Witch. This was the first pub I was ever served in without being asked for ID (I was 16 – completely normal in the '90s – in fact, I was quite late to the party). This was where we always started off the night in the days when we'd go out early because all pubs closed at 11pm. Sometimes we'd take our going out clothes to school and change into them in the loos, stuffing our uniforms in our bags. The Water Witch was always jam packed with people from my school and the boys' school (I went to an all-girls school) – I really don't know how they got away with serving so many underage kids. But it was wonderful here in the summer; gangs of us crowding onto the benches, girls screeching, boys practising shouting in their booming newly broken voices, secret snogging in the corners, everyone showing off and just having the best time. I'd go right back to that point in my life if I could.
Awww, the bridge we used to file across to get to the pub. For some reason, my boyfriend at the time always picked this bridge for an argument. Fun times!
Here, a very symbolic photo – looking back. D'you see? I took the photo from other side first, then I turned back here to take another, so looking ba– ... I don't need to explain this to you, you get it.
Past the Water Witch, you can get off the canal to go into town, which is right there. The building in the middle was one of our other very favourite pubs to go to, but this one operated club hours and stayed open until 2am, so we'd save that for last. It was called the Alex, and it was wonderful. Upstairs was the rock club, and downstairs played 'normal' music for the townies. I was a rocker, but I'd stay downstairs if that's where my friends had set up camp for the night.
The Alex was bought by Revolution (vodka bars), I think when we all went away to uni. It became a nice place for cocktails after work, but, of course, it was never the same as when we were at school. Oh god, I'm about to cry!
The Alex was bought by Revolution (vodka bars), I think when we all went away to uni. It became a nice place for cocktails after work, but, of course, it was never the same as when we were at school. Oh god, I'm about to cry!
Moving swiftly onward! And actually, we did keep a brisk pace today and I've no idea why – just happens sometimes.
So, this is where some pigeons roost. Time to lighten the mood with a bit of bird song.
Pigeons: https://www.british-birdsongs.uk/rock-pigeon/
So, this is where some pigeons roost. Time to lighten the mood with a bit of bird song.
Pigeons: https://www.british-birdsongs.uk/rock-pigeon/
Just down here, we have the Gatehouse restaurant. Mmmmmm, very tasty. Well, I haven't been for a few years actually – it might be crap now, but it was always very good in the olden days. And expensive. But one of the few places in Lancaster where you felt like you were being served proper restaurant food. Posh!
This bit isn't one of my memories, but one of Matthew's. This is another block of flats where he and his brothers stayed sometimes with their dad. You'll recall we saw the other flats on a Morecambe walk last week. Matthew says he caught an eel here once, but he doesn't really remember much else because he was only 5 and his dad didn't keep this flat for very long. Tiny bedrooms, no point. Fair enough.
I've been looking for moorhens on the canal because there used to be lots, and I finally found one – I know it looks like a coot because it seems to have a white beak, but that's a zooming iPhone issue, and it's beak was actually red. The new iPhone (oh yes, I have a new iPhone!) zooms very slightly better than the old one, but still isn't amazing at these distances. Perhaps I'm just asking a little too much of a camera phone and should buy a proper camera.
Matthew and his brothers ate at this next place quite a lot when they stayed with their dad. The White Cross is another very nice pub that serves excellent food. Matthew and I rushed past this one because it was just too much for us – we really can't wait to be allowed back into these places. Matthew says he just wants a pub coke, but I want to stuff my face with delicious food that someone else has made for me. This place is going to the top of the list.
Although it's very close to the Water Witch, we didn't really frequent this one as much when we were at school – I think it's because this was very definitely an adult pub, a little more subdued perhaps. After uni, that was another matter entirely. 'Linda, you out tonight?' says Steph, one of my oldest friends. 'Of course,' says I, 'meet you at the White Cross at half seven?' 'Yep,' says Steph, 'Jules'll be late, as usual.' I've also just remembered that this will have been over the phone, landline, because we didn't have mobiles then.
Although it's very close to the Water Witch, we didn't really frequent this one as much when we were at school – I think it's because this was very definitely an adult pub, a little more subdued perhaps. After uni, that was another matter entirely. 'Linda, you out tonight?' says Steph, one of my oldest friends. 'Of course,' says I, 'meet you at the White Cross at half seven?' 'Yep,' says Steph, 'Jules'll be late, as usual.' I've also just remembered that this will have been over the phone, landline, because we didn't have mobiles then.
Tried the phone out on the moon. What d'you think? A little better than the old phone – not amazing, but at least we have a shape now rather than just a glaring light, and we see a hint of craterage. It'll do.
Here's the cathedral, the thing that makes Lancaster a city. I think that might be a myth. I'm going to Google it.
Yes, it's a myth. Here is the truth – we're just a city because of our long association with the Crown. I think that's the actual monarchy, not the fun BBC TV series with Claire Foy.
Either way, the cathedral is very beautiful inside. If you're into Christmas madrigal concerts, which I am, this is your place.
Yes, it's a myth. Here is the truth – we're just a city because of our long association with the Crown. I think that's the actual monarchy, not the fun BBC TV series with Claire Foy.
Either way, the cathedral is very beautiful inside. If you're into Christmas madrigal concerts, which I am, this is your place.
This next has no particular memories for me; I just took the photo because I thought it was nice.
Look how low this one is! I wonder if the bridges in town were built so low to keep the costs down, or maybe to avoid making the roads through town so hilly.
New iPhone did weird things to the sky and made it look darker than it was – I think it was purposely showing off and being dramatic. But anyway, what you see here is the castle and the Priory in the distance, and an abandoned warehouse in the foreground. Great.
Now then, here we have a memory. Not the building through the shrubbery; no, what I'm actually looking at is the car park that's just visible right in the middle of the shot. Awwww, that's the car park attached to the Grand Theatre. Yes, yes, I am that multi-talented and I know you're not surprised, but I have performed there many times.
The Water Witch where we started today's walk is on one side of town, and by the time we got here, to this next bridge, we were pretty much on the other side of town. That's how small Lancaster is. You'll be sighing with relief thinking that we're getting to the end of today's post, won't you? Well, we're not, ha! I took loads more photos! Get comfy, because there's still quite a way to go.
This bridge here doesn't mean anything to me; I just think it's quite pretty.
This bridge here doesn't mean anything to me; I just think it's quite pretty.
People live here, which is cool.
Oh god, another human on the path! It was fine – just like everyone else, she stayed on her side of the path and we stayed on ours and there was no possible chance of coronavirus transfer. All good.
Oh god, another human on the path! It was fine – just like everyone else, she stayed on her side of the path and we stayed on ours and there was no possible chance of coronavirus transfer. All good.
Research flat earth for confirmation that it really is crazy talk? Or is someone hoping to convert us to the cult, do you think? I can't quite tell from this nice piece of graffiti.
Just in case, here you can watch a live feed of the view of the Earth from the ISS (I'd turn the sound off though – the music's a bit silly!).
Just in case, here you can watch a live feed of the view of the Earth from the ISS (I'd turn the sound off though – the music's a bit silly!).
So, all the way along the canal today, Matthew kept saying that he was looking for the place where he went with his friends a few weeks before the lockdown started. He tried to describe it to me but I really had no idea where this place was. I was intrigued, though.
At each bridge, Matthew narrowed his eyes and said, 'hmmm ... nope, must be the next one.' Eventually, we got to the right bridge and just beyond it ... some more weed smokers. These ones didn't say hello – they were deep in discussion about something. Just past them, though, was the place Matthew was looking for.
We had to cut through the hedge to the side of the path and jump down off a short wall, and then we encountered a path. 'Ooooh,' says I, 'where does this go?' I thought it was probably some kind of shortcut into town.
At each bridge, Matthew narrowed his eyes and said, 'hmmm ... nope, must be the next one.' Eventually, we got to the right bridge and just beyond it ... some more weed smokers. These ones didn't say hello – they were deep in discussion about something. Just past them, though, was the place Matthew was looking for.
We had to cut through the hedge to the side of the path and jump down off a short wall, and then we encountered a path. 'Ooooh,' says I, 'where does this go?' I thought it was probably some kind of shortcut into town.
There was an unlocked gate that Matthew had clearly been through before, as he unlatched it and just walked through very blithely. What's this secret life my son's been leading, I wondered. Off the beaten track with his mates, smoking weed? I'll have to keep my eye on that boy.
It turned out that it was just a little patch of wilderness that one of his friends lives right next to. It doesn't lead anywhere and is just a cool place to hang out. Nice. Kids need little dens and hidey places where they can feel like rebels and do some swearing out of earshot of their parents.
It turned out that it was just a little patch of wilderness that one of his friends lives right next to. It doesn't lead anywhere and is just a cool place to hang out. Nice. Kids need little dens and hidey places where they can feel like rebels and do some swearing out of earshot of their parents.
We stayed here for a few minutes while Matthew told me some stories about his adventures with his friends, but then we got really hungry and decided it was time to head home. But not the way we'd come because we had an urge to have a look at town. We've really missed it. Going into town on a Saturday afternoon because you've nothing more pressing to do is lovely, and we've always enjoyed just popping in for a wander and a window shop.
This building is just outside town, I'd say. This is where my mum when to dancing class when she was very little. It's empty now, a burned-out shell. I have nothing more to say about that because it's not one of my own memories.
This building is just outside town, I'd say. This is where my mum when to dancing class when she was very little. It's empty now, a burned-out shell. I have nothing more to say about that because it's not one of my own memories.
Ahhhh, I nearly did a cry here. This is the Grand Theatre I mentioned earlier. It's a tiny little theatre, but one of the oldest in the country, opened and in continuous use since 1782 (yes, I know! Those among you with the best memories will remember that that's bang in the middle of my favourite period of history!).
This is very high up on the list of things to do after lockdown.
This is very high up on the list of things to do after lockdown.
Town, St Nicholas Arcade, empty. I don't think I'm ever going to get over how weird this whole thing is.
Penny Street, empty.
Market Street, empty. What's cute is that, from the point I'm standing to take these two photos of Penny Street and Market Street (called Horseshoe Corner*), you can see pretty much the whole of town. Titchy!
* Horsehoe Corner is so called because of the horseshoe that's embedded in the pavement – local legends say the shoe was cast by the horse of either John of Gaunt, Duke of Lancaster [though I don't even know if he came here], or Bonnie Prince Charlie, who I believe did actually get down as far as this when he was trying to win back the throne for his dad).
* Horsehoe Corner is so called because of the horseshoe that's embedded in the pavement – local legends say the shoe was cast by the horse of either John of Gaunt, Duke of Lancaster [though I don't even know if he came here], or Bonnie Prince Charlie, who I believe did actually get down as far as this when he was trying to win back the throne for his dad).
Back up t't top o' town (please read that in a Lancashire accent – the thought of people trying to read that will make me grin for days) and we were back to where we'd started. iPhone doing pretty well in the dark here.
Look, see, you can understand why this was just a really cool pub for us young 'uns? And actually, in spite of how drunk young people can get, I don't remember anyone ever falling in the canal. Those blocks of flats weren't there then, by the way – that's fairly new Lancaster University accommodation, beautifully situated by two of the best pubs!
Phew! Well done on getting to the end of this mammoth post! Pints for everyone when lockdown's over.
Until tomorrow, my little snakebite-and-blacks.
WQ
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